The E3 error on your Maytag Washer means the machine’s control board has detected a problem with the drive motor circuit, usually because the motor isn’t reaching or maintaining the speed the control expects. Most of the time this is caused by a loose wiring connection, an overloaded drum, or a worn motor component, and it can often be fixed without calling a repair tech.

Error code E3
Meaning Drive motor or motor control unit (MCU) fault — motor speed not detected or not matching commanded speed
Severity Medium — washer will usually stop mid-cycle and won’t complete a wash
Time to fix 15–45 minutes
Tools needed Multimeter, screwdriver (Phillips/Torx), work gloves

What the E3 error means

On Maytag washers, the F2 E3 code points to an issue between the motor control unit (MCU) and the drive motor. The control board sends a command to spin the motor at a certain speed, and when the feedback signal doesn’t match — or doesn’t arrive at all — it throws the E3 fault to protect the motor and electronics from damage.

This is different from an F1 error, which relates to the main control board itself, or an F2 error, which often points to a stuck keypad. E3 is specifically about the motor not responding correctly to commands.

Common causes

  • Loose or corroded wiring connector between the motor and the MCU
  • An overloaded or unbalanced drum putting excess strain on the motor
  • Worn carbon brushes on the drive motor (common on older models)
  • A faulty motor control unit (MCU) that can’t read motor feedback
  • A failing drive motor that has developed an internal short or open winding
  • Debris or a foreign object jamming the drum or motor coupling

How to fix the E3 error

  1. Power cycle the washer: Unplug it for 60 seconds, or switch off the breaker, then restart. This clears temporary faults and is worth trying first.
  2. Reduce the load size: Remove some laundry and rebalance the load, especially with heavy items like towels or bedding, then run a short cycle to see if the error clears.
  3. Check the motor wiring: Unplug the washer, remove the rear or bottom panel, and inspect the connector between the drive motor and the MCU. Reseat any loose plugs and look for corrosion or scorch marks.
  4. Test the motor with a multimeter: With power disconnected, check the motor windings for continuity and correct resistance against the manufacturer’s spec. Replace the motor if a winding is open or shorted.
  5. Inspect for drum obstructions: Spin the drum by hand (with power off) to check for stiffness, grinding, or resistance caused by debris caught between the tub and drum.
  6. Replace the motor control unit: If wiring and motor test fine but the error persists, the MCU itself may be faulty and need replacing — this is best done by a qualified technician if you’re not comfortable working with the control board.

FAQ

Can I keep using the washer after an E3 error?
It’s best not to. Running more cycles with a motor fault can cause further damage to the motor or control board, so it’s safer to fix the cause first.

Is E3 the same fault as F3 on Maytag washers?
No. E3 relates to the drive motor circuit, while an F3 error usually points to a water temperature sensor problem. They’re unrelated faults with different fixes.

Do I need a technician to fix an E3 error?
Not always. Checking connections and reducing load size can resolve it yourself. But if the motor or MCU needs replacing, a technician is recommended unless you’re experienced with appliance repair.